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| Legendary Surfing Community Website |
Saturday 19th May 2012 Time:
04:06am San Diego /
12:06pm London /
09:06pm Sydney
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"A
Fun Approach To Surfing" OceanFever.net
- Your Surfing Community
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Cornwall - its a funny old place
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The
first true indicaters were on Wednesday evening, the remnants of hurrican Gabriell
were focusing their attentions on Europe. The wave period charts looked the
most promising for ages, figures in the teens, some even estimating a swell
up around a sixteen second period, a rare occurrence. The crappy north and north
eaterlies were due to swing to a brisk, but kind easterly, surely everything
was adding up to a rare solid clean Cornish swell. |
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The
period maps were showing all of the swell to reach far up the bristol channel,
a real chance for gems like Millook and Downend Point to light up under a long
distance swell. Gossip and web sites across the net were a light with talk of
rarely ridden points finally feeling the rhythmic pulse of a deep ocean ground
swell rumbling across their rarely ridden lineups. There were calls for pintails
to be brushed off and even the mention of the Cribber and other such pseudo
breaks lighting up for once. |
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Friday
night, no Saturday morning really and the K2 bouy awakes from a month long slumber,
first 2.5 metres at fourteen seconds then sixteen, shit it’s going to hit
earlier than expected, then unable to sleep the 3am reading makes an incredible
statement of 28 feet at 25 seconds! The eddie has been called on under less
fearsome readings than this, several more along the same lines come through,
this cant be true surely, then it settles down, |
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to an exciting but not as formidable sixteen second
period.
Saturday evening,
severn stones is around a metre at 14 seconds, not bad, Gwithian has a few
head high sets, nothing special.
Sunday morning the swell is now building rapidly, on the cliff above Gwithian
nervous groms await there turn to be sent out into double overhead conditions
for the final of the Down The Line No Pro. Our thoughts turn to points and
reefs further north, Devon maybe, but the swell has a tight North West angle
on it, and a few call s later and it appears only a few feet are showing in
the Bude area and less in Devon.
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A bit pissed off,
with the usual cursing of even when there is swell in cornwall there’s
no where good we head west to a very very very fickle secret spot. We get
lost, three or four times, peer over a slippery cliff and see the tide is
too high, completely skunked, all we have is a fat right hand semi point,
miles from anywhere.
With little else
to do we head in, within thirty
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we want out. Then comes the set of the day and the lineup transforms into a
cavernos pit on every wave, a freak set, no one rode a wave, hurridly we position
our selves for the next one, twenty minutes later we are rewarded as an eight
wave set pores throught the line up. The initial section is tricky but the end
bit offers a full on stand up keg, no one can believe it, all doubts about cornwall
are temporerilly forgotten. We ride three more sets, a pit on every wave, the
tide is dropping and the smaller ones are opening up as well, then after just
forty minute of joy the wind swings and picks up, a rageing north easterly rips
into out lineup in a matter of minutes, the secret reef is destroyed by chop
and rips.
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