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6ft British
Grinder.......
Do You Have A Wave Like This Near You?
When Britain
cranks it truly does have some great surf. Some of you know where this photograph
was taken but most of you will not have a clue and that is the way it will
remain.
Sometime
in the past 2 years we had the pleasure of tucking into some of Britain's
best barrels and we enjoyed it with only 2 others in the water.
At 5.30am
we awoke and checked the Oceanfever web site for wave buoy readings and to
see if the swell was building for the day. We were not disappointed. Grabbing
the boards, camera and some wax we headed by car through the country lanes
arriving to see a gentle swell gaining momentum.
This being
Britain we knew that we could wait and wait or just go in to have a laugh.
After 5 minutes of discussion and the local bullock in the field closing in
by showing us his nice nose ring we took the gamble that maybe we would actually
get good surf.
It must
have been 45 minutes before the first set started to crank on the spot, it
caught the cameraman out by far and stretched all our paddling skills to the
limit but we made it over. With in an hour we were surfing nice sets that
were chest to head high and very clean with an offshore breeze.
Our loving
surfing cameraman took a pounding on one set and we were forced to decide
whether this spot was just to dangerous if the swell increased as the sea
bed was becoming exposed in a number of spots. Our eager beaver Chief Editor
Wes said we should carry on and try to get some good action
. But then
again he would say that as he sat on his 9ft plus log looking as if he was
out back at Pipeline. In fact the typical Ed had no trouble in encouraging
us short boarders to take the drop why he negotiated the mellow lumps as if
he was on a cruise.
Anyway,
2 hours into the session the Ed seemed to have a call for nature so to speak
but not the watery kind and insisted he would actually catch the next set
in. Ahhh! We thought plank rider would die today.
He turned
cool and calm, a little smile on his eyes and away he went, we waited with
deep breaths (why do writers always say that
anyway sounds good!) but
no flying board in fact the man had made it down the line and out of the barrel
on that board with out a hick up.
Stunned
we all paddled in to a grinning bloke from ear to ear, who for the next 5
hours milked the story of his epic ride in British waters until the cameraman
developed the film. In clear view we saw the terror of the man called chief
Ed's face as he went over the falls on the British beast.
We know
of over 10 waves of a similar nature in Britain, do you? If not and you like
this type of thing then start looking because as far as we know most coasts
of these lovely isles do have such a hidden sleeping monster!
And thanks
Ed for letting us take the piss!
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