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What
do you like best about longboarding?
"I've always looked at surfing as a kind of golf game. You wouldn't play
Nine holes with a single club like a wedge, would you? I learned from Skip Frye,
Marty Vaughn and Craig Postan to have the proper tool for the conditions, whether
it be a longboard, shortboard or a gun. When I hooked up with Rich Harbour I
found someone who could shape
the ideal surfboard for me, the Simms Model. Rich is passionate about his work.
He's a sculptor whose life revolves around shaping and whose goal is to make
a surfboard that encompasses the whole bag of clubs."
What
is your most memorable Stateside spot?
"My favorite spots are not necessarily the most famous spots. I enjoy the
spots that have the nicest people and the most beautiful surroundings. When
you think about it, the average ride on a wave is only ten to twenty seconds
long but memories of experiences with good friends in pleasant surroundings
last a
lifetime. It's widely understood, however, that the hottest spot
around is Malibu and in September of 1976 I surfed it during the
best south swells ever. It was insane, in fact Hal Jepsen was there
filming. I think he called the film "Cosmic Children."
If you check it out look for a panning shot with three kids hanging
BA's at the camera. That was me, my brother Pat and my friend Ronnie
Williams. Malibu that summer was all-time, but even so, I recently
surfed a place in New York area called Montauk. The surf was great
with all the Atlantic hurricanes and I met so many nice people.
It was the most fun I've ever had. The older more experienced surfers
take care of the younger ones. The original surf spirit and energy
are still alive in Montauk." |